From: [email protected]
Date: 31/01/00
Time: 7:24:16
Remote Name: 213.1.9.69
I drill out and tap the crank to block studs (except for the one over the camshaft bearing and the other one you can't get to!!), and replace them with countersunk bolts. This means you can really tighten up the block without worrying about the stud pulling through. I use Cilicon RTV spareingly and nylocks all round. The lastest Ulster engine has turned over 16,000 miles since I built about 3 years ago. Leakage on the said joint is minimal. When I built this engine to replace the incredibly worn +80 block I had to give it some hefty whacks with the 3lb persuader to break the seal, that engine had done over 20,000 miles.
Ruairidh Dunford