Re: Chassis Rivets

From: Bruce White ([email protected])
Date: 15 Nov 2002
Time: 21:13:19
Remote Name: 129.96.230.51

Comments

Dennis, re the rails on the special I am building, I used very light gauge rectangular section (1 ½” by ¾ “ I think – any way it fit neatly into the old rails!) tube and MIG welded them as shown (approximately ever 6”). I did clamp them with a slight upwards bow. I also turned up some “T” shaped spacers and welded them in position (welded onto the new section – bottom bit) to act as anti-crush spacers. As Courtenay suggested, the new section could be drilled to reduce weight. You will notice I also used M8 HT bolts and nuts to replace any rivets removed. I welded most critical areas (ie cross members etc.) as well. I also added a second support between the front and rear cross members to provide extra strength for the radius arm ball joint area. Every Austin Seven chassis I have worked on has had this area of the front cross member pushed back! Needless to say, one must straighten this cross member first…. I am not concerned about my project being concours or being competitive so many things mentioned did not really concern me. I’m just after a reasonable special for road use. For a standard restoration I would question even boxing the chassis? The Comet has a standard short chassis and with only 3 engine mounting bolts tightened up - it is fine. The front cross member was straighten in place and the old rivets were still tight. Loose rivets on the Comet were replaced with dome head HT bolts and the allen head holes filled in after tightening. The special has Morris Minor hydraulic brakes fitted so I am after a bit more strength in some areas. Hence the big radius arms and the boxed welded chassis. If it wasn’t for this I would use a standard chassis on it as well. If your chassis is REALLY in poor condition maybe you should look for a better one? They are fairly cheap.

Bruce


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